About a year ago, I read an interesting book about the Via Appia, one of the most famous Roman roads in Italy and called the Regina Viarum, the Queen of Roads, by the poet Statius. When I visited Rome in the summer of 2018, I decided to follow in the…
It was a completely new experience for me. I had never thought I’d get a good laugh in a Jesuit church and yet my visit to the Sant’Ignazio di Loyola in July of 2018 started off in a hilarious way. As with most churches in Rome, the Sant’Ignazio has a…
The Santissimo Nome di Gesù all’Argentina – simply called Il Gesù by just about anyone – is the mother church of the Jesuit Order. Although founded in 1534 and approved six years later, the Order did not provide the Catholic Church with a pope until 2013, when Jorge Mario Bergoglio…
The church of Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri is located right next to the Roma Termini railway station. It of major interest for two specific reasons. First of all, it is the final church designed and built by the great architect and sculptor Michelangelo (1475-1564). Secondly, the church…
The Santa Maria della Consolazione – Our Lady of Comfort – is a church near the Forum Romanum that appears to be in need of comfort itself. Its state of maintenance is rather poor. Not that it looks like it is about to collapse, but weeds growing from the roof…
Almost every tourist visiting Rome will know the Piazza Venezia, the large square in front of the rather pompous Altare della Patria, the monument for Victor Emmanuel II, Italy’s first king. Most people will also know about the Palazzo Venezia to the west of the square, and about the balcony…
My first visit to the church of San Sebastiano fuori le Mura on the Via Appia was actually by accident. My friend and I had booked a guided tour at the nearby Catacombs of San Callisto and still had to wait an hour or so before it started. We decided…
One of the most confusing things about the small church of Sant’Agata dei Goti is that it is not located in the Via di Sant’Agata de Goti. This streets runs just to the south of the church. The Sant’Agata has its main entrance on the Via Mazzarino and a side…
I had not yet visited this large Augustinian church just north of the Piazza Navona and it was high on my list. I had spent the morning visiting other Roman churches (this one, this one and this one) and then hurried towards the Sant’Agostino, hoping to get there on time…
Oh, I knew about the existence of the church of San Benedetto alright. Traversing from one part of Trastevere to another, I had passed by the church on many occasions. It is located on a square, the Piazza in Piscinula[1], where I sometimes have lunch in one of the restaurants…
I had not planned to visit the San Silvestro in Capite.[1] It is another one of those Roman churches that are not mentioned at all in most travel guides. I do not blame them: there are certainly more interesting churches in the Eternal City. However, that does not mean that…
My first attempt to visit the church of the Holy Apostles in Rome was hardly a raging success. I had not forgotten that the Romans celebrate Epiphany on 6 January, but I had not expected that that meant that the Santi Apostoli would be used for religious services all day…
It is hardly surprising that I have walked past the San Marcello al Corso on numerous occasions. The ‘Corso’ part of the church name refers to the Via del Corso, one of the busiest streets in the city, which connects the Piazza Venezia with the Piazza del Popolo. In Antiquity…
A short version of the history of this church could be something along the lines of: “It survived in the past because it was mistaken for another church, and it survives in the present because it is a popular wedding location”. But that does not do the San Cesareo in…
The Santi Nereo e Achilleo is another one of those interesting Roman churches that never seem to be open. If you visit in winter, as I did back in 2017, you may expect the doors to be shut all week. In July of 2018, a memo was posted on the…
Getting to the church of Santa Balbina is fairly easy. The church is located on the eastern slope of the Little Aventine, overlooking the gigantic Baths of Caracalla. Actually getting into the church is a whole lot tougher. Apparently, people have been having difficulties with visiting the Santa Balbina for…
The Ara Pacis Augustae – the Altar of Augustan Peace – is what one could call a monument in the wrong place. The large open-air altar is not in its original position. It can now be found next to the remains of the gigantic circular Mausoleum of Augustus, but it…
The Pantheon is one of Rome’s most famous landmarks. In its current form, it dates from the second century. What is special, is that it is still more or less in one piece and that it has never been substantially modified. Rome does have a few other buildings from the…
Although certainly not the most interesting church in Trastevere, the Santa Maria della Scala may come as a pleasant surprise to many. Behind a fairly simple facade, one can find a rich Baroque interior. The name of the church – Our Lady of the Staircase – refers to a medieval…
There is a fair chance that I would never have visited the small church of Sant’Egidio in Trastevere, had I not found it open on a mild winter evening in January of this year. I had walked past the simple facade of the church countless times, and since the gates…