Florence has a number of very good smaller museums that have originated from private collections. I have previously discussed the Museo Horne, where we can admire the collection of the Englishman Herbert Percy Horne (1864-1916). Another post was about the collection of Salvatore Romano (1875-1955), which can be found in…
I cannot recall having previously discussed a restaurant on this website. But then again Fishing Lab in the Via del Proconsolo in Florence, right next to the Bargello, is not just any restaurant. Yes, the quality of the food you get there is excellent, but it was the unique ambiance…
Many years ago I bought a beautifully illustrated biography of the Florentine painter Giotto (ca. 1266-1337), written by Francesca Flores d’Arcais. The author dedicated just a few lines to the heavily damaged fourteenth-century frescoes in a chapel of the Bargello in Florence. Since their rediscovery in 1840 there has been…
In the year 1250 the city of Florence created the office of Capitano del Popolo. The Capitano was a kind of popular tribune who guarded the interests of the people. In 1255 a public palazzo was built for him, the first of its kind in Florence. The architect was Lapo…
The Basilica della Santissima Annunziata is the church of the Servites in Florence. This Order of Servants of Mary was founded in 1233 by seven Florentines who had simultaneously experienced a vision of the Virgin Mary. The church adjoins the beautiful Piazza della Santissima Annunziata, where we also find the…
There can be no doubt that the Florentines are immensely proud of the complex of San Marco. When I went to pick up my tickets for a number of attractions in the city, the man in the ticket booth explicitly spoke of “the beautiful San Marco”. The complex comprises a…
It is one of the most famous double portraits in history: that of Federico da Montefeltro (1422-1482) and his second wife Battista Sforza (1446-1472), painted by Piero della Francesca (ca. 1415-1492). Federico ruled over Urbino from 1444 until his death in 1482. He was the illegitimate son of Guidantonio da…
In the fourteenth century, painting in Siena was certainly on par with painting in Florence. While Florence had Giotto and his followers, Siena could boast of Duccio di Buoninsegna (ca. 1255-1318/1319) and the Lorenzetti brothers, Pietro (ca. 1280-1348) and Ambrogio (ca. 1290-1348). In the first rooms of the Uffizi in…
Every day thousands of people pass by the church of San Carlo on the busy Via dei Calzaiuoli. The church itself is seldom open though. During my most recent visits to Florence I found the doors of the building shut each and every time. The ultimate insult must have been…
Some churches remain on my to-do list for years for the simple reason that they are almost never open. The church of San Giovannino dei Cavalieri in Florence is just such a church. In spite of optimistic information on the Internet about opening hours, I have travelled to the church…
I ended my most recent trip to Florence with a visit to the Museo Horne. I had never been to this museum before and had never even passed by it. After my visit I had to conclude that I had definitely missed something all these years. The Museo Horne is…
Long, long ago I had read some information about the Cappella Rucellai, but my memory was extremely hazy. When during a walk in Florence I suddenly saw a sign that directed me to the chapel, I decided to use Google to find out more about the Cappella Rucellai. I liked…
On my way to Arcetri I happened to pass by the church of San Giorgio alla Costa in Oltrarno, Florence. This church can be described with the keywords “small”, “old” (possibly from the tenth century) and “until recently closed to the public”. The good news is that it is no…
The basilica of San Lorenzo is among the oldest and most famous churches of Florence. The church is immediately recognisable by its unfinished façade and the enormous dome of the chapel behind the choir, the famed Cappella dei Principi. There is probably no church in Florence that has a closer…
There is a lot to see in the basilica of Santo Spirito in Oltrarno, and there is a lot more to tell about the building, but unfortunately it is difficult to tell this story and simultaneously show images. The main reason is that it is strictly prohibited to take pictures…
The old refectory (cenacolo) of the Santo Spirito complex houses a very special museum, administered by the Fondazione Salvatore Romano. In the museum we can see the personal collection of the art dealer and collector of ancient art Salvatore Romano (1875-1955). Romano was originally from the town of Meta on…
In the north of Florence there used to be a large monastic complex administered by Camaldolese nuns. This complex of Sant’Apollonia, dedicated to a saint who had all of her teeth pulled out, was founded in 1339. The convent was disbanded in the second half of the nineteenth century and…
None of my travel guides mention the church of San Remigio in Florence, but thanks to a question from one of my colleagues I did end up there during my last stay in the city. He was doing research on a Dutch painter from the nineteenth century who had travelled…
The church of Sant’Ambrogio adjoins a charming little square full of bars and terraces. I happened to pass by the church on a lovely evening, when many people were sitting outside on benches or on the steps of the church. A band was playing enthusiastically, but unfortunately it got a…
A square box at the corner of the Via de’ Cerretani and Via de’ Vecchietti. I think that is a fair description of the church of Santa Maria Maggiore. The church is in fact one of the oldest in Florence. There is probably no truth in the story that it…