There was a simple explanation for the long, motionless queue in front of the Palazzo Te in Mantova: there had been a power cut, so it was momentarily impossible to print tickets. Paying by card was also not an option as long as the problem had not been fixed. Fortunately…
The city of Mantova is surrounded by water on three sides. The river Mincio is so wide here that three lakes have come into existence: the Lago Superiore, Lago di Mezzo and Lago Inferiore. When we first visited Mantova in 2019 we parked our car on the other side of…
From the Palazzo Te it was just a short walk to the church of San Sebastiano. The church was designed by the famous Renaissance architect Leon Battista Alberti (1404-1472). Its construction started around 1460 and it was completed by Luca Fancelli (ca. 1430-1502) well after the death of the original…
The cathedral of Mantova is dedicated to Saint Peter the Apostle. In Italian the building is therefore known as the cattedrale di San Pietro. It is a peculiar rather than a beautiful building, a remarkable mixture of styles, combining a Romanesque bell-tower, a Gothic flank, a sixteenth-century Renaissance interior with…
People who approach Mantova from the northeast and cross the Ponte San Giorgio to get to the city will see the enormous dome of the church and co-cathedral of Sant’Andrea rise up behind the lower buildings. The Sant’Andrea is by far the largest church in the city. From a religious…
The somewhat curious circular church of San Lorenzo in Mantova is also known as the Rotonda. It is possible that the roots of the building go back to the fourth century and that the church was built over the remnants of a Roman temple (perhaps dedicated to Diana) or a…
“Mantua me genuit, Calabri rapuere, tenet nunc Parthenope; cecini pascua, rura, duces.” (“Mantua bore me, Calabria took me away again, Naples now holds me; I sang about pastures, fields, leaders”) These famous words, which according to tradition are from the epitaph of the poet Publius Vergilius Maro (70-19 BCE) and…
It was a 30 minute drive from our holiday residence to the charming town of Desenzano del Garda, beautifully situated on the southwest side of Lake Garda. The town has about 27,000 inhabitants and offers a splendid view of Sirmione, the pearl of Lake Garda, which was built on a…
The picturesque town of Desenzano on the shores of Lake Garda once had an imposing Roman villa. Like all Roman villas, this villa was primarily an agricultural estate. The part where the buildings related to agricultural production must have stood has not been excavated. The residential part has, although the…
Just outside the small village of San Martino della Battaglia, a few kilometres south of Lake Garda, we find a remarkable monument from the nineteenth century. The monumental tower closely resembles a chess piece and honours the memory of Victor Emmanuel II, the first king of a united Italy, who…
Modern Solferino is a charming little town about ten kilometres south of Lake Garda. In this peaceful region of extensive vineyards that have sprung up around the town, it is hard to imagine that on 24 June 1859 one of the bloodiest battles in Italian history was fought here. On…
The conspicuous neo-classicist façade of the church of Sant’Agata will lead many visitors to conclude that the church was built fairly recently. It was not. Construction of the church started as early as 1077, some thirty years before that of the Duomo of Cremona. In 1223 the Sant’Agata was thoroughly…
Cremona’s civic museum is housed in the Palazzo Affaitati, which was built between 1561 and 1572. It is named after marquess Giuseppe Sigismondo Ala Ponzone, who in 1842 donated his art collection to the city. This collection is the nucleus of the current museum collection, but the museum also has…
The church of Sant’Agostino is an enormous brick building from the fourteenth century. The church stands on the Via Breda, and the name of this street gives a clue about the predecessor of the church. This previous church was the San Giacomo in Braida, with the Germanic word braida meaning…
The beautiful octagonal Baptistery of Cremona can be found next to the cathedral, on the south side of the Piazza del Comune. Construction of the building started in the year 1167 under the direction of an unknown architect. The design is sometimes attributed to a certain Teodosio Orlandino, but there…
The Duomo of Cremona, also known as the cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta, is undoubtedly the most famous building of the city. Almost every person living in the Netherlands knows it, if only because the cathedral and adjacent Baptistery feature prominently in a De’Longhi coffee commercial. The setting of the…
We know very little about the life of the Roman poet Gaius Valerius Catullus (ca. 84-54 BCE), but there is no doubt that he and Sirmione were close. In his Carmen 31, Catullus mentions the town: “O Sirmio, little eye of peninsulas and of islands, whatever in shining lakes or…
The Santa Maria Maggiore, also known as the Santa Maria della Neve, is a parish church in the centre of Sirmione. It is difficult to establish how old exactly the church is, but construction of the current Santa Maria Maggiore took place between the second half of the fifteenth century…
If you visit Sirmione, the pearl of Lake Garda, it is certainly hard to miss the castle of the town, the Rocca Scaligera. Sirmione is situated on a promontory which extends into the lake and which is, from north to south, about four kilometres long. The last kilometre or so…
There are many reasons to consider the small church of San Pietro in Mavino to be the highlight of Sirmione. First of all, it literally occupies a high spot, as it was built at the top of a hill near the end of the promontory on which Sirmione is situated.…