It has been a while since I last discussed a bridge in a post. The last occasion was probably when I wrote about the Ponte degli Alpini, a famous wooden bridge across the river Brenta in the charming town of Bassano del Grappa. The post I am writing now is…
It proved to be quite a challenge to find a restaurant in Pavia that was open for lunch. It was August and many Italians were on vacation. Fortunately, a restaurant named Miscusi on the Piazza del Duomo gave us a warm welcome. While we sat outside in the shade and…
Our Trotter travel guide gave the immense church of Santa Maria del Carmine just one little trotter. One trotter means: a tip, but not “interesting” (two little trotters) or “not to be missed” (three little trotters). Despite the rather low score, I would nonetheless certainly recommend a visit to this…
The church of San Teodoro is dedicated to Saint Theodorus of Pavia, who between ca. 740 and 778 served as bishop of Pavia. The history of the church goes back to the eighth century. Originally it was dedicated to Saint Agnes of Rome, who according to tradition was martyred in…
The church of San Michele Maggiore is the most interesting building in Pavia for those who are interested in political history. The church was closely associated with the Longobard Kingdom (568-774) and its successor, the Kingdom of Italy, which in the tenth century became part of the Holy Roman Empire.…
Although we had parked our car fairly close by, we had to take a rather long detour to reach the fascinating church of San Pietro in Ciel d’Oro. The church stands somewhat isolated, perhaps a consequence of the fact that it was originally situated outside the walls of Pavia. Three…
Although the name Certosa di Pavia suggests that this imposing monastic complex is located in Pavia, this is certainly not the case. The distance between the castle of Pavia and the monastery is, in a straight line to the north, at least seven kilometres. Definitely too far to walk, so…
There was a simple explanation for the long, motionless queue in front of the Palazzo Te in Mantova: there had been a power cut, so it was momentarily impossible to print tickets. Paying by card was also not an option as long as the problem had not been fixed. Fortunately…
The city of Mantova is surrounded by water on three sides. The river Mincio is so wide here that three lakes have come into existence: the Lago Superiore, Lago di Mezzo and Lago Inferiore. When we first visited Mantova in 2019 we parked our car on the other side of…
From the Palazzo Te it was just a short walk to the church of San Sebastiano. The church was designed by the famous Renaissance architect Leon Battista Alberti (1404-1472). Its construction started around 1460 and it was completed by Luca Fancelli (ca. 1430-1502) well after the death of the original…
The cathedral of Mantova is dedicated to Saint Peter the Apostle. In Italian the building is therefore known as the cattedrale di San Pietro. It is a peculiar rather than a beautiful building, a remarkable mixture of styles, combining a Romanesque bell-tower, a Gothic flank, a sixteenth-century Renaissance interior with…
People who approach Mantova from the northeast and cross the Ponte San Giorgio to get to the city will see the enormous dome of the church and co-cathedral of Sant’Andrea rise up behind the lower buildings. The Sant’Andrea is by far the largest church in the city. From a religious…
The somewhat curious circular church of San Lorenzo in Mantova is also known as the Rotonda. It is possible that the roots of the building go back to the fourth century and that the church was built over the remnants of a Roman temple (perhaps dedicated to Diana) or a…
“Mantua me genuit, Calabri rapuere, tenet nunc Parthenope; cecini pascua, rura, duces.” (“Mantua bore me, Calabria took me away again, Naples now holds me; I sang about pastures, fields, leaders”) These famous words, which according to tradition are from the epitaph of the poet Publius Vergilius Maro (70-19 BCE) and…
It was a 30 minute drive from our holiday residence to the charming town of Desenzano del Garda, beautifully situated on the southwest side of Lake Garda. The town has about 27,000 inhabitants and offers a splendid view of Sirmione, the pearl of Lake Garda, which was built on a…
The picturesque town of Desenzano on the shores of Lake Garda once had an imposing Roman villa. Like all Roman villas, this villa was primarily an agricultural estate. The part where the buildings related to agricultural production must have stood has not been excavated. The residential part has, although the…
Just outside the small village of San Martino della Battaglia, a few kilometres south of Lake Garda, we find a remarkable monument from the nineteenth century. The monumental tower closely resembles a chess piece and honours the memory of Victor Emmanuel II, the first king of a united Italy, who…
Modern Solferino is a charming little town about ten kilometres south of Lake Garda. In this peaceful region of extensive vineyards that have sprung up around the town, it is hard to imagine that on 24 June 1859 one of the bloodiest battles in Italian history was fought here. On…
The conspicuous neo-classicist façade of the church of Sant’Agata will lead many visitors to conclude that the church was built fairly recently. It was not. Construction of the church started as early as 1077, some thirty years before that of the Duomo of Cremona. In 1223 the Sant’Agata was thoroughly…
Cremona’s civic museum is housed in the Palazzo Affaitati, which was built between 1561 and 1572. It is named after marquess Giuseppe Sigismondo Ala Ponzone, who in 1842 donated his art collection to the city. This collection is the nucleus of the current museum collection, but the museum also has…